Zigzagging With Yarn: The Highs and Lows of the Chevron Stitch

The chevron stitch is a classic knitting technique characterised by its clean, zigzag lines and structured vertical ridges. By systematically balancing increases and decreases, you can guide the direction of your stitches to create undulating peaks and valleys. It is an excellent vehicle for highlighting colour changes, texture changes, or showcasing the natural variegation of plant-based yarns.

Following our recent articles on the importance of knitting increases and decreases for shaping, we will look at three distinct approaches to constructing the chevron stitch. Each method produces a slightly different fabric texture and line profile. We have also included a step-by-step video tutorial demonstrating our preferred setup.

If you are adapting a chevron pattern to different project widths, understanding how yarn weight affects drape and dimensions is crucial. Check our ultimate yarn weight guide to ensure you select the appropriate natural fibre for your fabric. If you want to design a custom chevron scarf or blanket with specific peak widths, you can use purlJam to generate custom layouts. Or, if you are planning to work these zigzags on sleeves or cuffs, you might want to review our comparison of small circumference knitting methods.

Understanding the Chevron Structure

The geometry of the chevron stitch relies on a balanced placement of increases and decreases:

• Peaks: Formed by grouping increases (such as yarn overs, make-ones, or knitting into the front and back of a stitch) to push the fabric outwards.
• Valleys: Formed by grouping decreases (such as knit two together, slip-slip-knit, or centred double decreases) to draw the fabric inwards.
• Alignment: To maintain the vertical alignment of the zigzags, the increases and decreases must line up precisely row after row.

Three Ways to Work the Chevron Stitch

Different increases and decreases offer distinct visual effects at the peaks and valleys. There is no single correct method; the choice depends on the aesthetic you want for your fabric.

Option 1: The Textured Peak & Flat Valley

This variation uses KFB (Knit Front and Back) increases side-by-side to form the peaks, while the valleys are worked with adjacent SSK and K2TOG decreases.

The KFB increases create small horizontal bars that mimic slip stitches, offering an open, textured peak. When working stripes, these horizontal bars highlight the colour transitions. The SSK and K2TOG decreases meet in the centre of the valley, creating a visible vertical seam.

Pattern Instructions (Option 1)

Abbreviations: K (Knit), KFB (Knit into the front and back of the stitch), K2TOG (Knit 2 together), P (Purl), SSK (Slip, slip, knit).

1. Cast on 34 sts.
2. K1, SSK, [K5, KFB, KFB, K5, SSK, K2TOG], K5, KFB, KFB, K5, K2TOG, K1.
3. Purl all stitches.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to desired length.

Option 2: The Columned Valley & Soft Curve

This version utilizes M1R (Make 1 Right) and M1L (Make 1 Left) increases separated by a single knit stitch at the peaks. The valleys feature a central knit stitch between the SSK and K2TOG decreases, creating a gentler curve at the lower edge.

The M1R and M1L increases create a closed, neat peak with minimal disruption to the fabric. The single knit stitch between the decreases creates a prominent vertical column of stitches running through the valleys.

Pattern Instructions (Option 2)

Abbreviations: K (Knit), K2TOG (Knit 2 together), M1L (Make 1 left), M1R (Make 1 right), P (Purl), SSK (Slip, slip, knit).

1. Cast on 33 sts.
2. K1, SSK, [K5, M1R, K1, M1L, K5, SSK, K1, K2TOG], K5, M1R, K1, M1L, K5, K2TOG, K1.
3. Purl all stitches.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to desired length.

Option 3: The Seamless Spine & Closed Yarn Overs (Our Recommendation)

Our preferred variation uses closed yarn overs separated by a knit stitch at the peaks, and a CDD (Centred Double Decrease) in the valleys. Closed yarn overs are created by twisting the loops on the wrong-side row, which prevents eyelet holes from forming.

This setup produces a flat, unbroken fabric at the peaks and a beautiful, raised vertical ridge (or spine) through the valleys. The colour changes remain exceptionally sharp and clean.

You can watch the full setup and technique for Option 3 in our video tutorial below:

Pattern Instructions (Option 3)

Abbreviations: BYO (Backwards yarn over), CDD (Centred Double Decrease), K (Knit), K2TOG (Knit 2 together), P (Purl), PTBL (Purl through the back loop), SSK (Slip, slip, knit), YO (Yarn over).

1. Cast on 35 sts.
2. K1, SSK, [K6, BYO, K1, YO, K6, CDD], K6, BYO, K1, YO, K6, K2TOG, K1.
3. P8, [P1TBL (through the YO), P1, P1 (through the BYO), P13], P1TBL (through the YO), P1, P1 (through the BYO), P8.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to desired length.

Customisation Tips

• Adjusting Width: To make a wider project, add multiples of 16 stitches to your cast-on and repeat the bracketed instructions `[ ]` in step 2.
• Altering Peak Profiles: You can adjust the width of the peaks and valleys by changing the number of knit stitches between the increases and decreases (e.g. changing the `K6` segments in Option 3). Remember to adjust the matching purl counts on the wrong-side rows.
• Adding Eyelets: If you prefer decorative eyelet holes along the peaks, work standard yarn overs (YO) and purl them normally on the wrong side rather than working them through the back loop.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I prevent the edges of my chevron knitting from curling?
Chevron stitch is based on stockinette, which naturally tends to curl at the edges. Adding a border of 3–4 stitches in garter stitch (knitting every row) or seed stitch along the left and right edges will counteract this tension and keep your project lying completely flat.

Why does my chevron piece have a different stitch count after a few rows?
This occurs when an increase or decrease is accidentally omitted. Every chevron repeat must contain an equal number of increased and decreased stitches; if you work a Centred Double Decrease (which decreases two stitches), you must ensure you work two yarn overs (or other increases) within that same repeat to keep the count balanced.

What is a Backwards Yarn Over (BYO)?
Unlike a standard yarn over where the yarn is draped from front to back over the needle, a backwards yarn over wraps the yarn from back to front. This alters the direction the loop sits on the needle, allowing you to twist and close the hole on the following row for a seamless look.

Can I use the chevron stitch for circular knitting?
Yes. When working chevrons in the round, you omit the edge stitches and work the repeat pattern continuously. You will also knit all stitches on alternate rounds instead of purling, while ensuring that the peaks and valleys remain aligned vertically.

Additional Resources

• Lace Knitting Basics: A guide to mastering yarn overs and leaning decreases.
• Crochet Stitch Abbreviations: Reference our complete guide to standard UK crochet shorthand.