Mastering the Crochet Chain: Counting, Turning, and Clean Edges

Almost every crochet project starts with a chain. Whether you are crafting a simple washcloth, a cosy bamboo blanket, or a structured linen tote, those first few loops set the width, tension, and structural integrity for everything that follows.

Yet, for many makers—beginners and experienced crafters alike—the starting chain remains a source of silent frustration. Chains pull too tight, edges curl or the bottom boundary of your finished work looks noticeably looser than your neat final row.

In this guide, we will break down the starting chain, examine stitch anatomy, compare different ways to insert your hook, demystify turning chain heights, and share simple adjustments that guarantee clean, professional edges every single time. (Note: All stitch abbreviations and names throughout this guide use UK crochet terminology.)

Take a look at the useful videos throughout and at the end of this article for extra help.

Anatomy of a Crochet Chain Stitch

Before working your first stitch into a starting chain, it helps to understand its three-dimensional structure. A single chain stitch is formed by pulling a loop of working yarn through an existing loop. Once formed, it has two distinct sides.

When looking at the front of the chain held horizontally, you will see a series of interlocking "V" shapes. Each "V" consists of two strands:

• Top Loop (or Upper Strand): The strand running along the upper edge of the chain as you hold it.
• Bottom Loop (or Lower Strand): The strand running along the lower edge.

(A quick note on terminology: While established stitch rows use "Front Loop" and "Back Loop" to refer to FLO and BLO techniques, starting chains are typically described using "Top Loop" and "Bottom Loop" to avoid confusion when starting Row 1.)

If you flip the chain over to look at the reverse side, you will find a single, rounded ridge running down the centre. This is known as the Back Bump (sometimes called the third loop or back ridge).

Where to Insert Your Hook (And Why It Matters)

Where you insert your hook during Row 1 determines the appearance and elasticity of your starting edge:

1. Under the Top Loop Only: This is the easiest method for beginners because the loop is easy to see and a simple action to insert your hook. However, it pulls the single strand upwards, leaving large holes and a loose, stretchy lower edge.
2. Under the Top and Bottom Loops (Under the 'V') or under the top loop and back bump (i.e. above the bottom loop): This creates a firm, inelastic edge. It can be tricky to insert the hook under both strands on tight chains, often causing uneven tension and large gaps.
3. Under the Back Bump: This is the preferred method for a polished finish. Working into the back bump pushes the front "V" to the bottom boundary of your work. This creates a neat, braided edge that perfectly mirrors the top edge of your final row. The elasticity and tension is also preferable to the other two methods.

Taming Tension: Why Foundation Chains Pull and Curl

A common problem in crochet is a foundation chain that feels significantly tighter than the rest of the project, causing the bottom edge to curve inward like a rainbow.

This usually happens because chain stitches are formed around the narrow neck or throat of the hook rather than sliding up onto the full width of the hook shaft. Furthermore, as you work the first row, inserting your hook into tight chain loops strips elasticity from the foundation.

Practical Fixes for Foundation Tension

• Go Up a Hook Size: Work your foundation chain using a hook 0.5 mm or 1.0 mm larger than the size recommended for your pattern, then switch back to your primary hook size.
• Form Chains on the Shaft: Ensure every stitch is pulled up onto the fullest part of the hook before drawing the next loop through, establishing an even loop diameter.
• Keep the Slip Knot Relaxed: Do not yank your initial slip knot tight against the hook. Treat it as a flexible anchor point.

Counting Your Chains Accurately

When counting your starting chain:

• Never count the active loop currently sitting on your hook.
• Count only the complete "V" shapes sitting between the slip knot and your hook.

When a pattern instructs you to "dc in 2nd ch from hook", skip the first "V" immediately adjacent to the hook, and insert your hook into the second "V".

Preventing Twisted Chains on Long Projects

When starting wide items like blankets, wraps, or sweaters requiring 100+ chains, keeping the chain flat and untwisted as you join or work Row 1 can be frustrating.

The Golden Loop Trick for Long Chains:

1. Chain your first 10-15 stitches as normal.
2. Remove your hook from the working loop.
3. Insert your hook front-to-back through the very first chain stitch made (near the slip knot).
4. Re-insert your hook back into your active working loop.
5. Continue chaining until you reach your full required length.

Because the starting end of your chain is anchored safely on your hook, the chain cannot twist as you work. When you reach the end, your foundation is automatically aligned and ready for Row 1.

Understanding the Turning Chain

When moving from one row to the next in crochet, you must build vertical height so your first stitch matches that of subsequent stitches. This height is created using Turning Chains (often abbreviated as ch).

In UK crochet terminology, standard turning chain heights and stitch rules are as follows:

A Gap-Free Alternative: The Stacked Double Crochet

While traditional turning chains are standard practice, a 3-chain turning chain for UK treble crochet can sometimes leave a small gap or loose loop along the side boundary of your project. If you prefer straight, seamless edges, consider using a stacked double crochet (stacked dc) instead of a turning chain:

1. Do not chain at the start of your row; turn your work directly.
2. Work 1 UK double crochet (dc) into the very first stitch.
3. Insert your hook from right to left under the left vertical strand (leg) of the double crochet you just created.
4. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on your hook to stack a second dc directly on top of the first.

This stacked stitch replicates the exact height and physical structure of a standard UK treble crochet (tr) and can also be used for htr's. Because it forms a true stitch rather than a chain, it eliminates side gaps and leaves a clean, easily recognisable "V" on top.

Closing Thought

The chain is the structural anchor of your crochet projects. Taking time at the beginning to work into the back bump pays off immediately in the clean finish and even tension of your makes, whether it is a blanket, garment or homeware.

Useful videos:

How to crochet a chain

Working into the top loop

Finding the second chain

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Frequently Asked Questions

Does the slip knot count as a stitch?

No, the slip knot serves solely as an anchor to secure the yarn to your hook and does not count as a chain stitch.

Does the loop on my hook count as a chain stitch?

No, the active loop resting on your hook is never counted as a stitch. You only count the completed chain "V" shapes below the hook.

Why is my foundation chain much tighter than my main rows?

Foundation chains often tighten because they are formed on the narrow throat of the hook rather than the full shaft, or because tension naturally tightens as you work into the loops during Row 1.

Should I use a larger hook for the foundation chain?

Yes, using a hook 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm larger for the starting chain is a reliable way to ensure your foundation edge maintains equal elasticity with the rest of your project.

Why is my foundation chain curling into a spiral?

Curling occurs when your starting chain tension is significantly tighter than the gauge of your subsequent stitch rows, pulling the fabric inward.

What is the back bump of a chain stitch?

The back bump (or third loop) is the single rounded ridge strand running along the reverse side of a chain stitch, directly behind the front "V".

Does a turning chain count as a stitch in UK crochet?

For UK double crochet (dc), a 1-chain turning chain generally does not count as a stitch. For UK treble crochet (tr), a 3-chain turning chain usually counts as the first stitch of the row.

What is a stacked double crochet and when should I use it?

A stacked double crochet (stacked dc) is a technique where you work one UK double crochet into the first stitch, then work a second double crochet into its left vertical bar to build height. It is used as a seamless, gap-free alternative to a 3-chain turning chain for taller stitches like UK treble crochet.

Which chain do I insert my hook into for the first stitch of Row 1?

For UK double crochet, insert your hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. For UK treble crochet, insert your hook into the 3rd or 4th chain from the hook (the skipped chains form your first treble).

How do I prevent my foundation chain from twisting on long projects?

After chaining 10–15 stitches, drop the active loop, insert your hook into the first chain stitch, replace the active loop, and finish chaining to keep the foundation permanently aligned.

Can I fix a foundation chain if I miscounted and made it too short or long?

If your chain is slightly too long, you can carefully unpick the extra unused chains from the slip-knot end after completing Row 1 and weave in the tail. If it is too short, it is best to unravel and restart to maintain correct gauge.