Knit and Purl: The Foundations of Knitting

Once you have learned how to cast on, you possess the basic tools to begin creating fabric. This guide focuses on the two most important building blocks of all knitting: the knit and purl stitch. Almost every project you encounter will be made from combinations of these two techniques.

Understanding the Structure

Knitting is essentially the process of pulling one loop of yarn through another. The knit and purl stitches are structurally identical, but they are worked from opposite sides of the work.

• Knit Stitch (Front): Creates a vertical “V” shape.
• Purl Stitch (Back): Creates a horizontal bar or "bump."

Learning to recognize these shapes—often called "reading your knitting"—is the fastest way to gain confidence and fix mistakes as you go.

How to Work the Knit Stitch

The knit stitch is generally the first technique for most beginners. It creates a smooth, tidy front surface.

Step-by-Step

1. Insert the right needle into the first loop on your left needle from front to back.
2. Wrap the yarn around the right needle anticlockwise.
3. Pull the new loop through to the front.
4. Slide the old stitch off the left needle.

Common Issue: Tight Stitches

If the needle is difficult to insert, your tension may be too tight. In my experience, this usually happens if you are pulling the working yarn too firmly after each stitch. Try to relax your grip to allow for a more even, comfortable flow.

Mastering the Purl Stitch

The purl stitch is often considered more difficult by beginners because the working yarn is held at the front of the project rather than the back.

Step-by-Step

1. Bring the yarn to the front of your work.
2. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left.
3. Wrap the yarn around the right needle anticlockwise.
4. Push the loop through to the back and slide the stitch off.

Common Issue: Accidental Increases

If you forget to move the yarn between the needles when switching from knit to purl, you might accidentally create an extra loop over the needle. Always ensure the yarn passes between the needle tips when moving it from back to front (between knit and purl stitches).

Key Stitch Combinations

Combining knit and purl stitches creates different fabric textures:

• Stocking Stitch: (stockinette stitch) Knit one row, then purl the next row. This results in the classic smooth look on the front and a bumpy look on the back.
• Garter Stitch: Knit every row. This creates a reversible, thick fabric that does not curl at the edges.
• Rib Stitch: Alternating knit and purl within the same row (e.g., Knit 2, Purl 2). This creates a very stretchy fabric.

Troubleshooting Common Mistakes

Mistakes are a normal part of the process. If your knitting doesn't look exactly as you expect, try these step-by-step fixes.

The Dropped Stitch

• What it looks like: A loop has slipped completely off your needle and is starting to "run" down the fabric, creating horizontal bars of yarn (ladders).
• The Fix: First, don't panic. Place a spare needle or a safety pin into the live loop at the bottom of the "run" to stop it from going further.
• The Step-by-Step: Use a crochet hook (or your needle tip) to reach through the loop.
  • Knit Texture: Insert your hook from the front to pull the horizontal ladder through the loop.
  • Purl Texture: Reach from the back to pull the ladder through.
  • The Finish: Repeat this until you reach your current row. Before sliding the loop back onto your left needle, ensure the right "leg" of the stitch is sitting at the front of the needle to avoid a twisted stitch. If you need a refresher on how the legs should sit, you can refer back to my previous post on the Anatomy of a Stitch.

Splitting the Yarn

• What it looks like: Your needle tip has pierced through the individual thin strands (plies) of the yarn. You will see one or two tiny threads left behind on the needle.
• The Fix: This often happens if the twist on the yarn is loose or using needles with very sharp tips.
• The Step-by-Step: Look at the stitch where the split occurred. Carefully slide that stitch back onto your left needle. Take a moment to gently pull the working yarn to re-form the plies into a single, cohesive strand. Then, re-insert your needle through the entire stitch, ensuring you are going through the "mouth" of the loop and not the fabric itself.

Accidental Yarn Overs (Extra Stitches)

• What it looks like: You notice you have more stitches than you started with, and there is a small, unexpected hole in your work.
• The Fix: This usually happens when the yarn is accidentally carried over the needle instead of between the needles when switching from knit to purl.
• The Step-by-Step: When you reach the extra stitch on your next row, you will notice it doesn't have a "V" or a "Bump" below it; it's just a loop of yarn sitting on the needle. Simply slide it off the needle and let it go. It will resolve the extra stitch and the tiny hole will disappear into the surrounding fabric as you continue.

Final Summary

The knit and purl stitch are simple but powerful techniques that form the entire basis of knitting. By focusing on accuracy and learning to "read" the stitches as they form, you will quickly develop the muscle memory needed to move on to more complex patterns.

FAQ

Why does my knitting roll at the edges? Stocking stitch (Knit one row, Purl one row) naturally rolls due to the tension difference between the front and back. Adding a border of a non-curling stitch like Garter is the most effective fix.

How do I tell if the next stitch should be a knit or purl? Look at the stitch sitting on the needle. If you see a "V" below it, knit the stitch. If you see a horizontal bar (bump) tight against the needle, purl the stitch.

My count is higher than when I started. Why? This is often caused by accidental "yarn overs" where the working yarn is carried over the needle instead of between the needles when switching positions.

Does it matter if I use metal or wooden needles? For beginners, wooden or bamboo needles are often recommended because they have more "surface grip." This prevents the yarn from sliding off too quickly, which can be helpful while you are still finding your rhythm.

Can I knit with any type of yarn when I'm first starting? While you can use any yarn, it is much easier to see your "Vs" and "Bumps" with a smooth, light-colored wool or cotton blend. Avoid very dark colors or fuzzy (mohair) yarns initially, as they can hide the structural detail of your stitches.

Why do my first few rows always look a bit messy? The first few rows are technically the most difficult to hold because there is very little fabric for your fingers to grip. As your project grows, the weight of the fabric will help pull the stitches into a more even, consistent shape.

How do I undo a single stitch if I realize I've made a mistake? This is called "tinking" (knitting spelled backward). Simply insert your left needle into the loop below the current stitch on your right needle and slide the top loop off. This safely unpicks one stitch at a time without needing to pull the needles out.

Is it okay if my stitches aren't perfectly even? Yes. Tension takes time to develop, and minor inconsistencies are a natural mark of a handmade piece. Most unevenness will also "block out" or settle once you wash and shape your final project for the first time.

What is the best project to start with? A garter stitch scarf is an excellent choice for a first project. It allows you to build a steady rhythm and focus primarily on your tension without needing to worry about curls or complex shaping.

Does a purl stitch use more yarn than a knit stitch? Surprisingly, yes—a purl stitch can use slightly more yarn than a knit stitch. This is typically because the yarn has to travel a slightly longer path around the needle when purling. It is also very common for a beginner's tension to be looser when purling, which contributes to more yarn being used in those rows compared to the neater, tighter knit side.