A Guide to Brioche Knitting

Once you've learned the basic stitches, take a look at our subsequent videos:

Brioche Knitting Basics 2 | Making Waves ~ Learn the fundamental increases and decreases that you will need to create the waves and twists.

Brioche Knitting Basics 3 | Botanical Symmetry ~ In this 3rd instalment, we'll cover the multi-stitch increases and decreases utilised in creating a leaf and other uniform shapes.

Brioche knitting creates a thick, cushioned rib with exceptional elasticity and drape. By pairing slipped stitches with yarnovers across every row, you create a lofty double-layer fabric that feels substantial and warm.

Because half the stitches are slipped on any given row, two worked rows equal one visible row of brioche ribbing. This unique structure gives the fabric its springy texture and deep, defined columns.

In this guide, I will walk you through the core building blocks of brioche knitting, how to read brioche stitches, and practical tips for working this technique with smooth plant-based yarns like organic cotton.

How Brioche Knitting Works

Brioche knitting involves alternating slipped stitches with yarnovers and knit (or purl) stitches . This creates a double layer fabric, giving brioche its signature plush texture.   

What sets brioche apart is its two-row system, where a single 'complete' row of knitting requires two 'worked' rows. This is because only half the stitches are worked on each row, while the other half are slipped. This process contributes to the fabric's thickness, elasticity, and springy quality.   

The 3 Key Brioche Stitches

Every brioche pattern is built from three fundamental stitch combinations:

1. BRK (Brioche Knit)

Often called the "bark" stitch. You knit the slipped stitch from the previous row together with its accompanying yarnover shawl.

2. BRP (Brioche Purl)

Often called the "burp" stitch. You purl the slipped stitch together with its accompanying yarnover shawl.

3. SL1YO (Slip 1, Yarn Over)

Bring your yarn to the front, slip the next stitch purlwise, and lay the yarn over the right needle to create a shawl over the slipped stitch.

Shaping: Brioche Increases and Decreases

Plain brioche ribbing is springy and soft, but adding increases and decreases lets you work striking curves, leaf motifs, and structural shaping.

• Brioche Increases: Because brioche alternates knit and purl columns, increases are worked in pairs (typically adding two stitches into one BRK stitch) to preserve the rib rhythm.
• Brioche Decreases: Decreases also remove pairs of stitches. They lean either to the right or left, creating directional lines that guide the fabric's flow across garment yokes or shawls.

Working Two-Colour Brioche

Two-colour brioche reveals the true structural magic of this technique. By using two contrasting shades, one colour forms the prominent front ribs while the second shade highlights the valleys behind.

When worked flat, you must use circular needles or double-pointed needles. Each row is worked twice from the same side (once with Colour A, then slid back to work with Colour B) before turning your work.

When worked in the round, you simply alternate colours on every round.

Beginner Tips for Clean Brioche

• Use Smooth Plant-Based Yarns: Organic cotton, bamboo, and linen give brioche crisp, graphic column definition. Avoid fuzzy yarns that hide the stitch architecture.
• Drop One Needle Size: Brioche fabric expands naturally. Working on needles one size smaller than recommended for your yarn weight keeps the ribs neat and resilient.
• Count Stitch Pairs as One: In brioche, a slipped stitch and its yarnover shawl count together as one single stitch.
• Use a Flexible Cast-On and Bind-Off: Because brioche is so elastic, rigid cast-ons will pinch your edges. Use a stretchy cast-on and a loose elastic bind-off.

Navigating Brioche Challenges

• Keep Track of Your Place: It is easy to lose your row count when starting out. Count your stitches regularly, and remember that a slipped stitch and its yarnover count together as a single stitch pair.
• Practice Tension on Swatches: Brioche requires steady yarnovers to keep the rib columns uniform. Practice on a small swatch first before starting a larger garment.
• Read Written Instructions alongside Charts: Brioche charts use unique symbols that can look confusing at first. Choose patterns that include both written instructions and charts to help you learn symbol conventions.

Soft Structure, Lasting Cushion

Brioche knitting is a rewarding technique that adds rich texture and warmth to your projects. Once your hands adjust to the BRK and SL1YO rhythm, you can explore everything from simple ribbed cowls to complex two-colour garments.

Patterns: A World of Brioche Creations

Once you're comfortable with the basic techniques, there are countless brioche knitting patterns to explore, from cosy cowls and hats to intricate shawls and sweaters.

If you're new to the technique, I'd recommend beginning with single colour projects to gain confidence with the stitches and process.  Then move onto 2 colours for a new challenge.   

Take a look at our Brioche Knitting Patterns.